Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.