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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.